BUSCALAN

Meeting the last mambabatok, Fang-Od was the reason for the Cordillera adventure. It was our only goal. The other destinations only came about during the planning. I wanted to meet her so many years ago but well, I wasn't very adventurous then, plus I didn't have an adventure buddy and funds. Then two years ago, Mau graduated from college and it felt like the best time to go out on an adventure. But she got a job (too soon) and we had to postpone everything. 

Looking back, I thought it was perfect that the trip had to be moved and moved again. I realized weren't quite ready then. I was too maarte, we didn't have money, we had no solid itinerary. It the trip pushed through, we probably ended up having an inefficient and costly trip.

Anyway, the trip to Buscalan wasn't easy. We were so tired, our bodies were sore from the Batad trip and it was scorching! We had to to trek under the sun for two hours. Thinking about it, I prolly would have done a better trek if the weather was cooler, I wasn't tired and if I was wearing outdoor shoes (I wore flat ground running shoes).

The phrase 'road less travelled' was written for a reason. It was exactly how I felt during the first hour of the trek. There was no trail. It was all steep, dusty, ground. It got better in the next hour. It was flat and we got some shelter from the sun because we were in the mountainsides. When I saw the stairs though, I knew I was in trouble. My legs were still aching from the Batad terraces traverse. Every step felt like torture. I was dragging my ass with every bit of energy I could scrape off my imaginary power tank. I had no more water and our guide kept saying 'one more hour and we'll be there'.

I saw an abandoned hut beside our nth set of stairs, I told the group to go ahead and I'll catch up. I HAD TO REST OR I WILL DIE. So Mau and I sat on a few big stones to catch our breath. A few minutes later, I heard the sound of kids giggling. I said to Mau, 'Teh, baka malapit na tayo. Naririnig mo ba? Parang mga bata yun.'  True enough our companion called us and announced that we have arrived at our destination. 

Mau and I got up for one last push. When I got pass the fence made of barks, I saw Fang-Od. Sitting outside her house, smiling at the new faces. I looked at Mau who was close behind and said 'Teh anjan na siya! To which she replied 'Oo ngaaaaa!' I wanted to cry. I couldn't move for a few seconds. My heart was spazzing. I asked our guide if I can come closer. He laughed thinking of course you can! We went up to her to mano. She squeezed my hand and smiled and laughed. Oh dear. Two years of planning and I can't believe she's right in front of me. All of a sudden I felt a surge of energy. I was tired, yes. But I somehow had so much enthusiasm and extra energy, and wanted to explore the whole village.

Kitchen duties

We settled in Fang-Od's house. I got my camera so we can go around the village but I got sidetracked because I saw Fang-Od being photographed in the kitchen. The photographer, Kuya Raul, a local of Banaue, invited me in so I crouched beside him and took photos as well.

We all got our tattoos the next morning. In between tattoo sessions, we'd hang out with the locals.

I felt peaceful in the two days we stayed there. There was no need for so much money. Everyone was so kind. There was a little enterprising whenever visitors came. I got a rattan necklace and even met the maker, Kuya Mindo (read as Mindu). It was actually his younger brother, Abel who sold me the necklace on our first night. I met Kuya Mindo on our second night. He makes rattan accessories and takes them downtown to sell to tourists.

We also washed our clothes! There is only one water source so everyone does their laundry in that area.

Ate Ruby (in black), Ate Selma (in yellow), and Ate Nancy (in pink) hanging out with us. The little boy in the middle lives in that hut behind the ladies. His mother allowed me to hang my laundry on their clothesline. The other guy lives in another part of the village.

I loved hanging out with the locals. They're nice, funny, and have so much stories to tell. They taught us some words in the Botbot dialect.

Pija - masarap
Manja mara - salamat
Pintas - maganda

Interesting how pintas is something positive in the Botbot dialect and negative in Tagalog.

Trivia: Their tribe names are based on their dialect. The people of Buscalan belong to the Botbot tribe (read as Butbut). There is no 'umbrella' dialect in the Cordilleras. Because the Cordilleras are mountains, there isn't much interaction between tribes back then. The level of variation of dialects depend on the distance of the tribes from each other.

It was bittersweet to say goodbye to everyone in the lovely village. They taught me simplicity- from the food we ate, to the home we lived in; pretty much in all aspects. They taught me happiness. I mean, I am generally a happy person, but these people have 'less' than me and they feel so rich. It was a beautiful learning.

 One last photo before we leave. 

Sleeping Beauty Mountain

Manja Mara, Buscalan! I will be back.

I'll try to tell you about Cordillera

I really wanted to write about my recent Cordillera adventure but I cannot find the words to encompass how I felt during and after the trip. It was exhausting, hot in the morning, chilly at night. It was a test of willpower and endurance. It was also beautiful, breathtaking, the kind that enriches your soul and you feel like your heart wants to burst, really, just amazing. But for the sake of keeping tabs on my trips, I will try to write about it.

***

We traveled to Banaue via Ohayami Bus in Manila. The trip would be 9 hours but it took us over 17 hours to get to Banaue because of road construction. No one was complaining, no one was mad during the long delay but we all knew everyone was hungry. I had to eat my 'trail food' of Breadstix and cheese in the bus. Gawd, it tasted like chicken. I also had to limit my water intake to avoid the urge to pee during the trip.

During a stop, Mau and I saw a carinderia and decided to pee and get some food. It became the fastest breakfast we've had because upon our food's arrival, the conductor called everyone to get back to the bus already. We stuffed whatever could fit our mouth while laughing at ourselves and semi-panicking. We couldn't finish the meal so we ran back to the bus with pieces of longganisa and rice stuck in our throats. When we got to our seat, we were still laughing at how ridiculously fast we ate and how crazy we must've looked back there.

BANAUE AND BATAD

We finally arrived in Banaue sometime past 3 in the afternoon. The air was cold. The bus driver turned the aircon off and we opened our windows to enjoy the breeze. Mau and I explored the town a bit. We went to the foot of the terraces after eating an early dinner. We then grabbed a beer at the lodge restaurant before retiring.

The view of Banaue Rice Terraces from People's Lodge.

The next morning, we were off to Batad. From the Saddle (take off point) one has to trek for 45 minutes to an hour to get to the terraces. The trail is easy, except if you're old or if you have rheumatism. It's gonna be quite a challenge.

First Bulol (Ifugao rice god) sighting. 

The Bulol (Bulul) is one of the biggest influences in my wanting to get into Art Studies during my undergraduate days in the University. I find it fascinating at the very least. I even passed the masters program but why I didn't pursue it is another story. hehe

 Batad Rice Terraces from the tourist registration area. 

When you see it in person, you'll understand what breathtaking means.

When in Batad, you have to visit Tappiya Falls. It won't be easy. But it is beautiful. You must go.

From Batad, you have to traverse the terraces and

 trek the mountains for two hours to reach Tappiya Falls.

Tappiya wiped out my energy so the walk back to the Saddle felt like a death sentence. My legs were shaking! Pero push lang. 

Next stop: Bontoc - Buscalan